Pattern making for a fit that repeats in every run.

A garment is a three-dimensional object made from flat pieces of cloth, and the pattern is what defines those pieces. Every curve, dart, seam allowance and notch decides how the fabric will sit on a body. A pattern that is slightly wrong produces a garment that pulls, gapes or twists, and no amount of good sewing can fully fix it.

This page explains what pattern making involves, how a pattern is built from a drawing or a reference garment, how it connects to fit and grading, and how we work with you to get a pattern that you approve once and can reuse for every order.

Pattern making turns a design into cutting pieces.

• Reading the design sketches, tech pack or reference garment.
• Drafting the pieces front, back, sleeves, collars, pockets and trims.
• Adding allowances seam allowances, hems and any shrinkage allowance.
• Marking notches, grain lines, button positions and pocket placements.
• Checking measuring the pieces against the specification.

The result is a set of pattern pieces that can be cut and sewn into a first sample.

There are several routes to a pattern, and the right one depends on what you have.

1. 01

   From a tech pack and measurements, built from scratch.

2. 02

   From a reference garment, which we measure, take apart if needed and analyse.

3. 03

   From an existing block, such as a standard t-shirt or hoodie fit, adjusted to your design.

4. 04

   From your own patterns, if you already have them in a usable format.

Using a proven block is often the fastest way to a good fit, with changes made for your proportions and details. Building from scratch gives full control and suits more distinctive designs.

A pattern is not only a shape but a calculation of how much room the garment gives the body. Ease is the difference between the body measurement and the garment measurement, and it changes with the style: close-fitting, regular, relaxed and oversized all use different ease.

We account for fabric stretch, drape and shrinkage when building the pattern, and we review the first sample to check that the fit matches the intent.

Knit and woven fabrics need different approaches. Knits stretch, so patterns for fitted knit garments are often smaller than the body, using negative ease. Wovens do not stretch, so they need enough room to move, with darts, pleats or shaping to fit. Stretch wovens sit between the two.

Shrinkage matters in both. We build in allowances based on the fabric's wash behaviour, and we check the finished size after washing a sample. This is particularly important for cotton and for garments that will be washed often.

We keep patterns in digital form, which makes them easy to adjust, grade and store. A digital pattern can be revised after sample comments without being redrawn, graded across the size range and reused for every reorder. It also reduces fabric waste, because pieces can be laid out efficiently on the cloth.

Your approved pattern is kept on file so that a reorder starts from the same shape. If you want to change something, such as a sleeve length or pocket position, the pattern is updated and the revision is recorded.

Pattern making sits between the tech pack and the sample. The tech pack describes what you want, the pattern turns it into pieces, the first sample shows how it behaves in cloth, and fit comments feed back into the pattern. This loop repeats until you approve the sample.

After approval, the pattern is graded across the sizes you plan to sell, and it becomes the basis for cutting. Our grading, custom sizing and sample development pages explain these steps in more detail.

From a reference garment, a sketch or a tech pack, a pattern emerges in several steps. First, the parts and measurements are captured, then the base shape is constructed and seam allowances are set. A first sample follows and is checked on a person. Feedback goes into the pattern until fit and appearance are right. The pattern is then graded, so that the whole size range stays consistent.

Fabric properties play a part. A stretch fabric needs different allowances from a woven one, and shrinkage from washing is planned in. Construction and the effort of the seams also influence the pattern. We document the approved pattern, so that reorders come out identical. Sending a reference garment usually saves a sample round, because measurements and proportions can be taken directly.

Send us your sketches, tech pack or a reference garment, together with the fabric and sizes you have in mind. We will respond in writing with questions and a suggested route. A development sample is the clearest way to judge a pattern, and made-to-order starts from 50 pieces per style.